Modelling the Kerr-Stuart Brazil Class 0-4-2ST locomotive in 16mm scale. - Keith Bucklitch

The Cab.


1. Cab Rear.



The cab rear is made from a rectangle of 20 gauge (1 mm) material, brass or steel, cut to 51 mm by 106 mm size. To this is riveted (or soldered) two pieces of 4 mm brass angle, 115 mm long. The lower edge of the plate should be 19 mm from the lower end of the angle pieces. The top arch is formed by gently bending some 4 mm brass angle of slightly thicker gauge to the curve with fingers and thumb. This is then soldered to the top of the upright angle pieces. Some 1/2 round 3 mm brass strip is soldered along the top edge of the cab backplate. The cab rear is secured to the buffer beam with 12 BA hex head steel screws, after spotting through and tapping the beam.


2. Cab Sides



The cab sides are made from 1 mm (20 G) brass or steel. I suggest that before you actually cut any metal, you make some dummy sides from thin card. (A cereal packet is ideal.) This can be trimmed and adjusted easily for any cut-outs around the boiler and pipework. (Try to arrange a gap of about 1 mm between the cab sides and the boiler to reduce heat transmission.) The position of the bend can be found and marked on the cardboard, then take the measurements for the metal sides from these pieces. After cutting out the metal shape, bend it around a piece of 6 mm (1/4") rod, taking care to maintain a perpendicular curve. The front end of the cab side should fit between the boiler support on the rear spacer, and the screw holding the footplate down on to the spacer. Adjust the angle of the curve so the cab sides are parallel to the footplate edge. Two lugs made from 6 mm (1/4") brass angle are soldered to the bottom edge. These are clamped in place, spotted through from the footplate and drilled and tapped for 10 BA fixing screws.



3. Bunker Floor



Two pieces of brass are cut to shape and folded to form the bunker floor. These can be soldered into place. Note that one of these should have a hole to secure the water filler nozzle. (I used an ENOTS coupling available from Tony Sant.) You will also need to allow a slot in the front end for the pipe from this to emerge and pass to the clack valve on the boiler. Finally a piece of 1/2 round, 3 mm brass is soldered along the top edge of the side.


4. Cab Front.



The cab front is cut from the same material as the cab rear. Note the shape of this on the drawing. You can of course make your cab front to any design that you wish. Excelsior, on the Whipsnade Railway for example, has a standard spectacle plate with round windows. If following the drawing, the cab front is soldered/riveted to two 96 mm lengths of 4 mm angle. (I made them this length so as to maintain the cab height from the footplate floor.) These can be temporarily glued in position on the cab sides, taking care to maintain a perpendicular angle. Drill through both cab-side and angle piece with a 1 mm drill, and secure with 14 BA screws and bolts. (I think the angle is too thin to consider tapping this.) Bend the top arch as before and solder in place. Offer the cab front to the frame and fix in position as desired. (Because the cab sides fit around the boiler, it is not possible to make the whole side/front assemble as a single unit, hence the fixing with screws.)


5. Cab Roof



This can be made from slightly thinner material (say 0.8 mm/24 gauge) to make it easier to bend. Cut a rectangle 80 mm by 110 mm and curve to fit. I used some bending rollers, but it can be done by placing the plate on several folded layers of towelling and rolling with a piece of bar or even a rolling pin! Apply firm pressure, and check the curve frequently until you get a good fit on the front/rear frames. Mark the position of screw holes and secure the roof to the frames with 12 BA screws.


Next - Fuel Tank.

If you have any questions, or comments or find any errors in these notes please contact me by email. Email Keith Bucklitch.

Copyright © 1998, Keith Bucklitch
Last Edited - November 1998